Kaş, Antalya

A short video of my trip, now in HD!


Earlier this month I took a trip to the beautiful town of Kaş, located in the Antalya province. Surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea on the south, and the Taurus mountains in other directions, Kaş is one of a kind exotic destination. The town is home to some of the best Mediterranean beaches, including the Kaputaş and Patara beaches, and offers a rich insight into the ancient Lycian civilization. On the western edge of Kaş, overlooking the Mediterranean is the ancient Antiphellos theatre, built to accommodate up to 4000 spectators (⅓ of the city population). The theatre is dated back to 200/300 BC and was restored in the 2nd century AD after much of the region was struck by an earthquake in AD 141. The theatre is built of limestone with ashlar masonry, Lycian monuments are rather remarkable if you take a closer look. Much of the koilon (auditorium) is still intact but there are no remains of the skene. 

The Antiphellos theatre. You can get an exquisite view of the Mediterranean from the top, I had no strength left to climb!

The Lycian sarcophagi found at various locations in the city are indeed a work of art. Like in most ancient civilizations, tombs were venerated by the Lycians. Lycian tombs can range from simple rock tombs, for the poor, to intricate sarcophagi and temple tombs for the rich. The sarcophagi consist of three parts: a lower burial chamber or hyposorium with Lycian inscription, a base, and a top with a pointed arch lid. Inscriptions on the sarcophagi are burial rights which suggest that the tombs were built while the person to be buried was still alive. The Lycians inscribed their tombs to protect them from theft or damage, the inscriptions stated the punishment or fine that must be paid if the tomb is violated and cursed the desecrator. 

Located in the city center is a 4th century BC Lycian sarcophagus called the King’s tomb (Lycians did not bury their loved ones in isolated areas). Two lion heads can be seen projecting from each long side of the lid and relief sculptures are visible on the short sides.

A closer look at the inscriptions on the hyposrium.

Patara

Situated south-west of Kaş is Patara, a maritime Lycian city also known to be the birthplace of Saint Nicholas aka Santa Claus. A variety of Lycian tombs can be seen in the necropolis in Patara. Other notable ruins include the triple-arched triumphal gate (Gate of Modestus), the assembly hall, basilica, and a lighthouse. Few miles down the city is the sandy Patara beach, one of the widest in the Mediterranean and once an important naval base for the Lycians, linking the Mediterranean to the Aegean Sea.

The necropolis in Patara. The tombs, like most Lycian monuments, are carved from limestone. The Gate of Modestus, marking the city entrance can be seen in the back.

The Assembly Hall of the Lycian League, the first known democratic parliament building.

The Patara Theatre. The seating area is divided into upper and lower zones. A temple can be seen at the top center of the koilon, a cardinal architectural feature of the theatre (Right). The theatre stage building (Left).

Inscriptions on the outer wall of the stage reveal that the theatre's construction began in 126 AD and concluded in 147 AD.

                                                                                                        The Patara Beach

Kaputaş Beach

Miles east of Patara lies the Kaputaş beach. Getting to the beach itself can be a bit complicated (if you've already made it to Kaş, it can't be impossible!) but once you're past the rocky mountain you'll have a breathtaking view of the clear turquoise water along the Mediterranean coastline. This small beach surprisingly doesn't get packed with tourists and its currents are much more forgiving compared to Patara's! But of course, if you love to surf and are okay with the mud and the crowd, you'll equally enjoy the Patara beach!

                                          Some 200 steps down the highway and opposite to a steep rocky gorge (right) lies the magnificent Kaputaş beach.

A panoramic view of the Kaputaş beach.

Sunset at the Kaputaş beach.

Kekova

Located between the towns of Kaş and Demre (Lycian city of Myra, the hometown of Saint Nicholas), is the Kekova region. Full-day boat trips leave for Kekova every morning from Kaş. The Kekova region comprises of the Kekova Island, the villages of Kaleköy (Lycian Simena) and Üçağız (Lycian Teimussa), and some other small towns. The Kekova Island is uninhabited and was declared a Specially Protected Area by the Turkish government in 1990 in efforts to preserve the remains of the sunken city. On the northern shore of the Island, ruins of a sunken city are visible. These ruins belong to the Dolchiste, an ancient Lycian settlement which was destroyed and partly submerged during the earthquake in 2nd century AD. Swimming is restricted in the sunken city but it is accessible by boats and kayaks. Luckily, much of the ruins aren’t deeply submerged and are visible from the clear turquoise water. Most boats will also have glass-bottom panels allowing for a better view of the ruins which include houses, tombs, cisterns, and a harbor.

Remains of houses.

Closer look at some underwater ruins.

A cross can be seen carved on the city remains, probably from the Byzantine period. 

The water system and the water well.

Boats anchor at the nearby Tersane bay allowing tourists to swim close to the sunken city.

Past the sunken city is the village of Kaleköy, known for its Byzantine castle built upon some Lycian foundations including a small amphitheatre. Several Lycian tombs can be seen scattered across the village. This small village will captivate you with its quaint beauty: terracotta roofs, cobbled streets, artifacts from the Lycian, Roman, and the Ottoman periods, wild thyme and fruit trees, handmade crafts, and stunning views of the Mediterranean and the Kekova Island.

Further north from Kaleköy is the Üçağız village with more tombs and Byzantine artifacts. You can find some picturesque waterside restaurants serving fresh seafood. Üçağız village can be reached by road from Demre but Kaleköy is only accessible through water.

Kaleköy

Views of the Kekova Island from Kaleköy (Left). A small cafe overlooking the Kekova Island (Right).

Handmade crafts and textiles at the village.

                                                             A preschool spotted in the village. Views of the Kekova Island from the preschool (Right).

 

 Fresh goat milk ice cream (right). The Simena Castle (left).

Üçağız village. A waterside restaurant and the green and white minaret of the Üçağız Cami (mosque) can be seen. 

Remains of a large necropolis on the eastern end of Üçağız.

Internship Updates and Marmara Adventures

Summer at the UNFPA EECARO has been extremely busy and meaningfully engaging in preparations for the upcoming Summit in Nairobi on ICPD 25. During the past weeks I have been working on two major SRH events taking place in September, which sadly enough, I won’t be able to attend. The SRH team at the RO, together with the International Centre for Reproductive Health (ICRH) at Ghent University, is organizing a webinar on Sexual and Reproductive Health and Rights (SRHR) Action Plan (AP) for COs. The webinar will present new tools and indicators for the development and implementation of national SRHR strategies and APs to accelerate the ICPD Agenda. The WHO/European SRH AP was adopted at the 66th session of the WHO Regional Committee in 2016. UNFPA EECARO cooperated with WHO in the development of this first joint regional SRH programme, which supports countries to ensure that individuals are achieving their full SRH potential. To date, six EECA countries have developed and endorsed national SRH APs, 4 are in the process of finalizing the APs, and others have yet to start the process. The webinar will provide COs with an indicator framework, quality assurance checklist, as well as recommendations from Moldova’s national SRH AP to help them in monitoring and developing their national APs.

The other event taking place in September is a workshop on women and young people with disabilities in collaboration with Women Enabled International (WEI). The workshop is a joint effort of UNFPA EECARO and the Headquarters to accelerate the core principle of 2030 SDG Agenda: leave no one behind and reach the furthest behind first. Towards the end of last year, UNFPA and WEI developed guidelines for providing services to address Gender-Based Violence (GBV) and SRHR for women and young people with disabilities. The workshop will include discussions on the guidelines and their implementation. Panelists include people with disabilities, policy-makers, advocates, representatives from NGOs, Special Olympics, and EECA COs, who will discuss SRHR barriers encountered by people with disabilities and share best practices in the region. The timely workshop will be an excellent opportunity for EECA countries to reflect upon and incorporate SRHR for women and young people with disabilities into their prospective national SRH APs. The 3 day-long workshop will provide several opportunities for engagement and collaboration among national and international partners. Days 1 and 2 will also include a special visit to the Dialogue Museum where participants will be engaged in everyday activities in complete darkness/silence with visually/hearing impaired guides, allowing for a role reversal and understanding of challenges faced by people with disabilities. 

I had the privilege of organizing the SRHR session of the workshop, which will include presentations from 3 EECA COs: Serbia, Georgia, and Belarus. The COs will share their country cases on 3 different dimensions of SRHR of women and young people with disabilities: policy development, research, and human rights. The session will also include a special presentation on disability and HIV as well as an overview of the international human rights framework on access to SRHR services for people with disabilities.

A trip to the Princes’ Islands!

A few weeks back, I took a trip to the beautiful Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara. The Princes’ Islands, also known as the Red Islands (Kizil Adalar), is an archipelago of 9 islands situated southeast of Istanbul. It is one of the most popular getaways for Istanbulites during the summer to escape from the heat and crowd of the city. A popular getaway now, the islands once used to be an exile for princes’ and other royals during the Roman and Byzantine periods, hence the name Princes’ Islands.

Beautiful view of the Sea of Marmara from Büyükada

Enjoying some fresh ice cream on the island

The most popular islands in the archipelago are Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kinaliada. They are easily accessible through local ferries and are free of motor vehicles! Local means of transport include bicycles, horse carriages, and boats. The historic mansions and pine trees add to the mesmerizing beauty of these islands. The largest of the islands, Büyükada, is home to the 18th century Aya Yorgi Kilisesi, a small Greek Orthodox Church of Saint George, which attracts pilgrims from great distances who come here to make wishes. If you end up climbing the Aya Yorgi hill to visit the Church and explore its venerable icons, you may not want to miss experiencing the most beautiful sunset in Istanbul!

Feeding pigeons before taking the ferry back to Istanbul

                                                                                                                                                              Ferry ride from Hybeliada to Büyükada